TileCoach Team Feed

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i’m using a large format 12 x 24 tile in my bathroom which is about 6’ x 7’.

I’m doing the dry out now. At the door I have about a 2 inch gap between the tile and the transition to the next room. The bathroom is about half an inch higher than the next extreme, which will have LVP due to my Leveling.

What would you do in the space? Cut tile to fit? Any other suggestions?

I'm curious as to what the recommended order of priority is when tiling a shower. Should I tile floor first, walls second and curb last or is there a better order of priority? Thanks in advance!

I’m going to be installing a seal system shower (I think that’s what it’s called, with a FloFX bonding flange) in my pier and beam house I’m building. Shower base is 76”x42” over 3/4” Advantech plywood. One of my many questions is this: can I use 1/4” cement board (could only find PermaBase in my area) as an uncoupling membrane of sorts? I am going to install it throughout the rest of the bathroom and laundry room floors and figured I could run it continuously into the shower floor as well, including under the concrete curb I’m going to pour. Then when I install my deckmud, it can bond to the cement board. Would I need to still install tar paper and wire lath before deck mud if I did it this way? Thanks in advance. And sorry for the blurry picture, it’s a screen shot from a video I took.

I am installing a schluter pan and am considering adding a liquid membrane of some sort as additional insurance. However, schluter does not recommend it but do not flat out say it will fail. Anybody have experience combining these products?

I'm framing out a shower and getting ready to order a Tile Redi Base 36x60 (flat bottom, single curb, center drain). Per the spec sheet, the drain should be centered at 30" from each side wall (60" length).

My center drain measures about 29 7/8" from one framed wall. Since I know Tile Redi's custom pan options are offered in 1/4" increments, I'm assuming anything less than a 1/4" off standard spec would fall within normal tolerance for a standard pan — but wanted to sanity check that assumption with people who've actually ordered/installed these.

My real concern is the "short" side of the pan — if my drain is sitting close to that 1/4" edge of tolerance, could the shorter distance from drain to wall on that side cause the pan to not physically fit within the framed space, even if the offset itself seems minor on paper?

5x8 bathroom. 5' wall parallel to bath is cinder block and will be framed out with 2x4 and insulated. Adjacent walls are 2x3" framed. One backs to a bedroom that has rockwool insulation in it. The other (shower head side) backs to the other shower in a utility wall.

Should I install any vapor barriers before installing backer board? Seems like it would make sense.

Looking for a direction to finish this shower. My wife and I built our home in Idaho out of pocket over 7 years. We have been using an upstairs

full bathroom until we finish out master bath. Money is always tight and we needed other things so this was last. A year ago I blew out my back and now nothing is easy. At 64 I’m struggling with what to do with the shower pan. We did all our own tile in the home so that’s nothing new to us. But after watching years of Tile coach videos I’m worried we will screw it up 🤔. It’s an odd shaped bathroom and big basically a 4x7 ft pan with an angle. I was looking at a done tile ready pan but my plumbing is already ready to do the sloped pan and I THINK doing the tile ready pan …

I'm remodeling my shower and thinking about using goboard with a dry pack pan. I'm hearing conflicting advice about the order of the build. Should I install the goboard walls before the dry pack or should I first install the dry pack shower pan and then install the walls?

I am trying to determine proper slope for large curbless shower. (Mudbed and Kerdi membrane on top.) Shower is 43" x 95" with center drain 24" from one end.

With 1/4"/ft slope, the drain is 1.5" down from long end. This leads to a 3/4" slope from the short sides to the drain.

Is the 3/4" slope too steep?

Is it ever good idea for mudbed top edge to not be level all around?