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Hello,

I know this forum is mostly about showers and waterproofing, but does anyone in here know anything about Saltillo tile?

I was about to tile my fireplace and I decided to rip up the white floor tile on the hearth because it was cracking. This floor tile was cracking in several places all over the room. So I pulled it up (it came up easily) and found Saltillo tile underneath. So now I'm on a side quest of restoring the Saltillo.

A previous homeowner had just installed tile over it and carpet over other parts of it. I'm pretty sure it's original to the house. Luckily the person who installed the tile over it did not use anything but mortar, so the Saltillo came out mostly unscathed.

My parents have a floor buffer so I borrowed that and used Ecolab and Zep stripper with the black pads. I got…

I’m new to the TileCoach platform and way impressed with the knowledge base here and want to test the waters on an upcoming project that includes two SECOND FLOOR bathrooms with two separate objectives;

1) Master Shower Floor (complete replacement)

2) Guest Bath (replace floor tile). Both were completed by another contractor 18 months.

This post is about the Master Shower Floor.

Because the drain was set too high (water settles around drain), tile pieces popping out, etc., I was contacted to completely replace the shower floor down to the joist's. I have complete discretion in size/type of tile and drain replacement selection. I will remove the glass shower wall.

I am building a curbless shower. I hired a professional to hotmop the the pan. It is a second-floor OSB subfloor. I recessed the floor a few inches for a pre-slope, hot-mop, and then an inch of deck mud. When he did the hot-mop, he extended the hotmop about a 18 inches onto the bathroom floor. How do I tile that? I was planning to use Ditra as an uncoupling membrane. I was going to put the ditra on up to the curbless edge, put in the deck mud to make it even with the Ditra. How do I bond the ditra to the hotmop overlap? I cannot find an example or solid suggestions.

With 1/4" cement board over subfloor, I have about 1" from the top of my floor trusses. Could I make dry pack work if I fastened plywood between the trusses, a couple inches below the top of trusses and filled with dry pack? With the drain centered on a 6' shower, the dry pack would be sloped within 1/4" of the top of the trusses. Could the trusses be treated to hold that thin layer of dry pack? Or maybe cut the dry pack away from trusses after curing and prime trusses and fill in void with thinset?

Just watched a video "Sealant Instead of Thinset 7 Day Test" Kerdi Fix looks like 3M 5200. We use 3M 5200 to install underwater thru hulls on our boat. It is nicked name 3M forever. Flexible and next to impossible to remove. I'm wondering if it would work to seal banding, corner patches and membranes. Maybe the Coach could test it? They have a quick set version.

pm

i’m using a large format 12 x 24 tile in my bathroom which is about 6’ x 7’.

I’m doing the dry out now. At the door I have about a 2 inch gap between the tile and the transition to the next room. The bathroom is about half an inch higher than the next extreme, which will have LVP due to my Leveling.

What would you do in the space? Cut tile to fit? Any other suggestions?

I'm curious as to what the recommended order of priority is when tiling a shower. Should I tile floor first, walls second and curb last or is there a better order of priority? Thanks in advance!

I’m going to be installing a seal system shower (I think that’s what it’s called, with a FloFX bonding flange) in my pier and beam house I’m building. Shower base is 76”x42” over 3/4” Advantech plywood. One of my many questions is this: can I use 1/4” cement board (could only find PermaBase in my area) as an uncoupling membrane of sorts? I am going to install it throughout the rest of the bathroom and laundry room floors and figured I could run it continuously into the shower floor as well, including under the concrete curb I’m going to pour. Then when I install my deckmud, it can bond to the cement board. Would I need to still install tar paper and wire lath before deck mud if I did it this way? Thanks in advance. And sorry for the blurry picture, it’s a screen shot from a video I took.

I am installing a schluter pan and am considering adding a liquid membrane of some sort as additional insurance. However, schluter does not recommend it but do not flat out say it will fail. Anybody have experience combining these products?