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I’m removing tile and rotted OSB around a toilet flange. Any trick to knowing how far out I need to go - besides cutting out row by row of tile and checking for solid wood? Any other advice? : ) Thanks! Colin
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We have marble floor tile. It was installed without enough slope to the flofx drain. the floor has a several inches of mortar between the tile and green roll on waterproof membrane. Can I just remove the tile with would removing any wall tiles? its also a step in so there are some mini wall/face tiles on the step down. Trying to fix this with non marble replacement tiles . Recommended tools and technique appreciated.
This sounds like an incorrect installation. The FloFX sysetem should have only thinset between the membrane and the tile.
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I sealed the joint of my custom Tile Redi pan and Redi Board joint with just the Redi sealant. I know an extra layer of protection is recommended with banding, but I ran out of sealant. Am I risking water penetration? Should I bite the bullet and get more sealant and apply the banding? I’m concerned about having too much build up now.
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I have 3 questions
I used the RLS HD tile clip system When I have knocked them off flush with the tile. How do I remove them?
The second question is I have two tiles that I have to replace in the general floor in bathroom. The tiles were on a wire system which I had to remove for the remodel. See picture. Can I just use all set to set the new tiles?
Third question is I am using a RSS foam pan with a dry walk out area. I am going to install pebble tiles. I am going to install a vertical piece of marble Can I just adhere to the exposed foam see picture
As Roger said, a buzz tool or Dremel might help cut the plastic out.
The two tiles look like they were installed on wonderboard or durock. I would reinstall (either 1/4" or 7/16" to match).
I would call RSS and see what they recommend there. I don't see an adhesion issue with thinset or selant to the foam, but wouldnt hurt to double check.
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What is the easiest grout for a DIYer to apply on shower walls? I’m doing 8”x3”Zellige subway tiles with 1/16” grout lines and want to find a grout that is beginner friendly to work with. Spectralock 1 seems a bit stiff for small grout lines
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Hello all, finally getting to my tile install. I have a walk in shower which is an RSS foam pan with the grey membrane fabric factory installed. The walls are the RSS board (closed cell foam with mesh and grey cement like coating). I have decided to go with Arden X77 thinset. I would appreciate any and all suggestions for trowels. Floor is 2”x2” mosaic and walls are 12x24. Safe to say I fall into the rookie category so trying to maximize my success more than time or money. Thanks in advance!
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So GoBoard is great stuff. Its a lot stiffer than Kerdi board and the compressive strength is quite impressive. The compressive strength for the 1/4" GoBoard is 300psi which is great for floors and on top of curbs where Kerdi board would be terrible because it is so soft. The compressive strength of the 1/2" GoBoard is still 250 psi which makes it quite stiff for spanning stud spacing with little flex where Kerdi board again is pretty bad. GoBoard is basically a textured fiberglass paper on both sides that sandwiches polyisocyanurate foam in the middle. GoBoard is waterproof as stated in their data sheet, but their system has a flaw. Waterproof in this instance means that water will not travel through the board from one side to the other. BUT, water will soak into the fiberglass paper and travel laterally through the board.
I found this out after doing…
How long did you let the sealant cure? The GoBoard sealant is supposedly water cured so filling your test basin should actually help the curing process, but I wonder if there could still be some required “dry curing” time needed to fully adhere to the fleece. I’ve seen similar results in a GoBoard pan I installed but assumed it was the fleece wicking moisture as opposed to the sealant leaking.
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I am doing a DIY renovation on a condo and will be installing 9mm thick 8" hex tile in an above grade (over a carport) bathroom floor. (The adjacent flooring will be LVP 7mm thick.). In the TC videos I have seen, Isaac does not use a decoupling membrane, either in the showroom or in the powder room in which he installed similar tiles to the ones I will be installing. I'm curious as to why, and if a decoupling membrane would be gilding the lily in this particular instance. Thanks all!
John
Thank you, Isaac, for the response. It really helps inform what I will need to do in the kitchen where the same tile will be installed and there maybe more serious subfloor issues.
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Hi Isaac and Team,
Hats off to all of you experienced professionals, I’m an experienced DIY guy in other elements of the building trades.
I’m tackling my personal 5x6 bathroom concrete floor laying small pebble tile. After watching TileCoach videos I’ve landed on Laticrete Spectralock Premium A/B + C, but open to other recommendations.
I do need to level the area a bit, about 1/4 - 3/8 inch. The existing toilet flange height isn’t an issue. I’ve seen you use LevelQuik with LevelQuik Primer. Is Laticrete NXT Level or NXT Level Plus over Spectralock a better choice, keeping it in the same Laticrete family, or does it really matter?
Level Plus talks about microban, is that a consideration?
I just want to make good choices, thank you in advance,
I like custom building products LevelQuick the best. Don't worry about mixing products.
It looks like Permabase, probably 1/2”.