Bullet Proof Old School Shower Design
I’m getting ready to start a tub to shower conversion on the second level with a wood sub floor. Labor time is irrelevant on this project. I just cant get comfortable with any of the modern systems that rely on a topical sealing system, so I’m trying to stay as close as I can to TCNA B415-23.
The attached detail is what I have come up with.
I have a few questions:
1. Bottom Of Backer Board: Seal the bottom edge of the dura rock with silicone to the pvc liner, coat the bottom edge with hydra-ban while doing the walls, and then float the dry pack mortar bed over the top edge of the backer board. Does this seem like a reasonable solution to prevent wicking of the cement board while still firmly anchoring the bottom of the wall?
2. Masonry Curb: Probably overkill, but I want to eliminate any wood in the curb. Hard to see in the detail, but I’m starting with a poured masonry curb that I then wrap with the PVC liner, and than float a fat mud curb cap over the poured curb as you typically recommend. I’m treating the bottom edge of the curb cap the same as the walls to prevent wicking and lock it in place. Do you see risks in this curb construction?
3. Deck Mud Cure Time: Lead time for my tile prevents me from setting the tile while wet. All of the deck mud manufactures specify that the mud should be fully cured before setting tile, but of course none of them provide any guidance as to how long curing will take. I’m guessing you aren’t waiting 28 days to set tile. I understand there are lots of variables that effect cure time, but can you give be a rough idea of how long I need to wait for the pan to cure before setting tile?
4. Waterproofing: I would add Hyrdo-ban on the walls, but NOT on the mortar pan. Would you coat the curb?
5. Would you have any other concerns with the overall design of my system?
Looks like a very solid build. I am not sure why they say that on the deck mud, but we always tile it the next day and no problems.