TileCoach Team Feed

Used Prism Scg premixed grout for walk in shower. Let cure for approx 3 weeks before water exposure. Feels hard but when it gets wet or damp i can rub it off with my finger. Any thoughts?

So we just had a honed marble tile backsplash installed in our outdoor kitchen. Unfortunately neither I nor the tile installer kne

w that the marble should have been sealed prior to grouting and now the shade of the marble tile has gotten much darker, thanks to us selecting a "pewter" colored grout.

Does anyone know of a product out there that might be able to lighten the marble back to where it was?

first time DiYer struggling with ripping 24" tile. The saw I bought has a wobbly table with when trying to rip the tile. I rented a rail saw (its all that was currently available and a pain to use). I'm doing something wrong but don't know what it is, as the tile is about a 1/16 off, I'm using a square and holding the tile down but I'm still off and blowing through my tile. Curious about renting a different saw? Also if the 1/16 off is only on the bottom row how off will the rest of the job be? Will it be noticeable?

I’m a DIY homeowner and built a shower pan about three years ago. Recently, the tiles on the inside face of the curb started pushing outward, so I removed the inside and top curb tiles to investigate.

I couldn’t identify the exact point of water intrusion, but nearly the full length of the DensShield on the inside and top of the curb was wet, likely from wicking, and the screws used to fasten it were rusting. I have not yet removed the outside curb tiles or the pan liner to inspect the wood underneath. The wood does not feel soft, so I’m wondering whether the curb might be repairable without full removal.

I’m hoping to understand:

1. Why the curb failed — was the problem mainly my design, my technique, or both?

2. What the best repair approach would be now.

Build method, inside to outside:

Just installed a Tile Redi pan and wallboard in a small shower and I’m planning on installing a Schluter corner bench. My question is what thinset should I use behind the bench and with the Kerdi band, because Tile Redi says only modified and Schluter says All Set or unmodified but All Set in not on the approved list from TR?

Also would I want to use the same thin set for installing the tiles over the bench?

I am a DIYer working on two new construction showers where the contractors did the framing of the shower and used Glasroc as the substrate. I plan on using hydroban liquid membrane as the primary waterproofing as well as their antifracture membrane in the corners/changes of plane then screeting the walls to get everything square and plumb.

I have some concerns about the layering of hyrdroban (antifracture fabric) > thin set(screeting layer) > hydroban (waterproofing the field) > thin set> tile. I assume its better to have fewer layers of different materials binding to one another. My question is whether I should hydroban the whole shower(for waterproofing the field) before screeting or after.

Lastly, thanks so much for the videos, information and forum to help DIYers get this work accomplished. I really appreciate how Isaac explains the nuance of tile setting and his values around helping people. It’s obvious he…

My kids bathroom remodel was going great till I started to remove the tile. The rotary drill is removing the tile easily, but I'm having trouble with what is below. I can get off the brittle backer board little by little, but there's a blue thin membrane on the bottom that I can't remove without damaging the plywood subfloor. It seems glued on completely.

Anyone had experience with this? Can thinset bond to this old membrane if I leave it? Any help would be awesome.

I am doing a tub to shower conversion using a mortar bed and Hydroban for the walls. After hanging the Hydroban, one wall puckered inwards at the seam by maybe 1/8", which I thought would be a problem, so I got the plastic screeds that Isaac sells and screeded it using thinset so it was flat and plumb.

After a few days I noticed a horizontal crack in the thinset, but figured it's concrete, and concrete cracks so whatever. But today I was finalizing the tile layout (rectified 4 x 4" tiles) and realized that the crack was due to the wall buckling outwards now. It's out by maybe 1/8", but these rectified tiles (Sant'Augostino pixel tiles) are not tapered at the edge at all, so will really show any lippage.

I've waterproofed the whole thing, and it's got a heated floor (Ditra Heat), so I don't want to do…

my knee wall tile ends just below the top. This is based on a full tile just under the window. I have these 3/4 tiles that I could install. but it messes up the top of the kneewall which will have a granit (or equiv) slab. There will be glass block on top of the knee wall all the way to the cieling.

you can see in the window pictures that the tile will stop just above the window. 3/4 tile around the window and a slab at the bottom again. jollybead around the niches.

3rd.. I am trying to figure where I want the black line around the shower walls. I will have white tiles on floor with black design and black sanitary cove. same with the main area.