How to Install a Frameless Glass Shower Door with Polished Nickel Hardware
- Isaac Ostrom
- 3 days ago
- 7 min read
Alright guys, Isaac here from Tile Coach. In this one, I’m walking you through how to install a frameless 3/8-inch glass shower door with polished nickel hardware.
If you’ve ever admired that clean, modern, “floating glass” look in a spa-style bathroom and thought, man, I’d love to do that in my own home — this one’s for you. We’ll go step-by-step through everything you need to know: measurements, prep, drilling, hardware installation, and silicone sealing.
This setup creates a super sleek, modern aesthetic — no bulky frames, no headers, no ugly tracks. Just clean lines, solid glass, and craftsmanship that speaks for itself.
Let’s dive right in.
Key Takeaways for Homeowners & Pros (TL;DR)
Frameless glass doors = open, modern, spa-like vibe
3/8-inch glass = perfect balance of strength and elegance
Flat and plumb walls are critical — there’s no frame to hide imperfections
Always protect waterproofing when drilling through tile
Polished nickel hardware pairs beautifully with warm or cool tile tones
Use rubber shims under the glass and rubber gaskets at hinges to protect from chipping
Silicone only the fixed panel — leave the door free to swing both ways
Tools & Materials You’ll Need
3/8" frameless tempered glass panels
Polished nickel hardware set (clips, hinges, handles)
Stainless steel screws and anchors
Drill with porcelain-rated bits (cyclone bits work great)
Tape measure, pencil, and level
Denatured alcohol and silicone sealant
Rubber shims & gaskets
Impact driver (for setting clips and anchors)
Wire cutters or dikes (for trimming screws and anchors)
Step 1: Measure Everything Flat, Plumb, and Level (00:00–00:45)
Before you even think about ordering your glass, check your walls. Frameless glass doors don’t have any track to hide uneven walls — everything needs to be dead-flat and perfectly plumb.
In the video, you’ll see me set a long level on the wall (around 00:30 mark). Ours is spot on because we floated it nice and straight during tile work. That’s the beauty of doing your own prep — it pays off when you go to install the glass.
💡 Pro Tip: Always check wall flatness across multiple points. A tiny bow can throw off your alignment later.
Step 2: Choose the Right Hardware and Finishes (00:45–01:15)
For this job, we went with polished nickel hardware to match the plumbing fixtures — it ties everything together for a clean, coordinated look.
We’ve got:
Four clips to hold the fixed glass panel
Two hinges for the door
Matching polished nickel handles
Everything about this shower screams high-end but minimal. No header, no bulky frame — just precision glasswork.
We’re also working with 3x12 handmade ceramic tile from Spain, set with a darker grout to make the pattern pop. It’s a beautiful combination that gives a studio-style vibe.
Step 3: Prep the Shower Floor and Curb (01:45–03:30)
This shower has a low-profile curb with a single-slope shower pan that drains toward a Laticrete tileable linear drain.
I like to float my shower floors with mortar beds — not foam. Foam pans can flex or create uneven spots, which is a nightmare for frameless glass installs. The mortar bed gives you a perfectly solid, seamless base.
Before drilling, I always double-check the slope and level across the curb (see 02:45 in the video). That’s key to getting the door panels aligned cleanly.
Step 4: Drill Anchor Holes for the Glass Panel
(03:30–04:45)
This part takes some finesse. I use cyclone porcelain bits because they’re designed to cut cleanly through tile without chipping. You’ll see me mention it in the video — the bit gets hot fast, and I even burnt my finger once testing it. (Occupational hazard 😂)
Drill only through the tile, not into your waterproofing. You’ll feel it “pop” once you break through the porcelain — that’s when you stop.
The manufacturer gives you long screws, but I always cut mine down to about 3/8-inch to make sure they don’t puncture the waterproofing below.
💡 Pro Tip: Trim both your screws and anchors with dikes. A short screw that holds securely is way better than one that leaks.
Step 5: Install the Glass Clips
(04:45–06:45)
The clips come in two pieces:
One side has the fastener screws
The other side is flat and polished (that’s your finished face)
Make sure that flat side faces outward — that’s the side everyone sees.
Tighten the screws snugly with your impact driver, but don’t over-torque. If your impact is “popping” when driving, that means the screw’s tight enough. Too much torque and you risk cracking tile or stripping anchors.
You’ll notice in the video (around 06:15), I talk about solid backing — it’s optional for the fixed panel, but mandatory for the hinge side. The door’s weight hangs from those hinges, so that wall needs solid blocking behind the tile.
Step 6: Set the Fixed Glass Panel
(06:45–08:15)
Now it’s time to drop in the panel. Use rubber shims under the glass to protect it from chipping on the curb. Never set glass directly onto tile — even a tiny movement can cause a chip or crack.
We snugged everything up just enough to hold the glass, then used a level to check plumb. Our panel was slightly off, so I lifted the bottom edge and nudged the top in until it read perfect.
Once everything’s plumb, tighten down the clips gently. Remember, you can’t “bend” glass into alignment — all your adjustments happen in the mounting hardware.
Step 7: Mount the Hinges and Hang the Door (09:00–12:45)
Now we get into the fun part — hanging the door.
Just like the clips, the hinges have two sides:
One side with the fasteners
One with the polished face
We mounted the door hinges to align with the fixed panel, marking from the top of the panel, not the bottom. That’s because the bottom of the door has a sweep — if you measure from there, your door alignment will be off.
Each hinge gets rubber gaskets between the metal and glass to prevent cracks. Tighten the hinge screws just snug for now — you’ll be adjusting later.
Once hung, the door should swing both ways freely. I always check the gap between door and panel — around 3/16-inch is ideal (see 12:45). Too wide and it looks sloppy; too tight and it’ll rub.
We ended up tweaking both the panel and door slightly to get that perfect spacing.
Step 8: Install Handles and Hardware Finishing Touches
(08:45–09:45)
Handles are simple: they come with a bolt, washers, and a decorative cap. Don’t use an impact here — you’ll just need a gentle hand-tighten.
Rubber washers go between the handle and the glass to cushion and prevent stress cracks.
I used Milwaukee impact bits for the rest of the install — they work great, though I’ll admit I’ve jammed my thumb once or twice when a bit slipped. (If you’ve got a favorite impact bit, drop it in the YouTube comments — I love hearing what other pros are using!)
Step 9: Silicone Sealing
(13:36–14:30)
The very last step is sealing the fixed panel. I only silicone the fixed side, not the door. The door needs freedom to swing both directions.
Use 100% silicone, and clean the joint with denatured alcohol before applying. This helps the silicone bond cleanly and gives a neat finish. A quick smooth with your finger and you’re done.
💡 Pro Tip: Silicone isn’t just for looks — it prevents moisture from creeping under the glass and keeps the enclosure performing like new for years.
Step 10: The Finished Look
(14:30–End)
Step back and admire that view. A perfectly plumb, crystal-clear frameless shower with polished nickel hardware — that’s a showpiece bathroom upgrade.
It’s subtle, elegant, and it makes even small bathrooms feel more open. Every little detail matters here — from the slope of the curb to the way the hardware aligns with the plumbing fixtures.
And the best part? No bulky frame or header to distract from the tile work you poured your heart into.
Quick Recap: Pro Tips from the Jobsite
Always float your walls and curb flat before ordering glass
Measure twice — order once
Drill only through the tile, not waterproofing
Trim screws to prevent leaks
Use shims and gaskets to protect glass edges
Set door hinge marks from the top of the panel, not the bottom
Adjust gaps to about 3/16" for smooth swing
Only silicone the fixed panel edge
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q. Can I install a frameless shower door myself?
Yep — as long as your measurements are dead-on and your walls are flat and plumb. If you’re new to drilling through tile or working with glass, I’d recommend having a pro help with at least the glass setting.
Q. Why 3/8-inch glass?
It’s thick enough to be solid and safe but not so heavy that it stresses the hinges. It’s the perfect balance of durability and clean design.
Q. What finish should I use for the hardware?
Polished nickel is a timeless choice that complements warm or cool tones. Brushed nickel, matte black, or brass also look awesome depending on your bathroom style.
Q. How do I protect the waterproofing when drilling?
Use a porcelain bit, stop as soon as you feel the “pop” through tile, and trim your screws to about 3/8". Never drill through into your waterproof layer.
Q. Do I silicone the door too?
Nope — only the fixed panel. The door needs room to move freely both directions.
Q. How do I clean and maintain it?
Just use a non-abrasive glass cleaner and soft cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals and acidic cleaners. Wipe down water spots regularly to keep the nickel shining.
Final Thoughts
Installing a frameless shower door isn’t a five-minute job — but it’s totally doable with the right prep and patience. The key is precision: plumb walls, perfect measurements, and gentle handling of the glass.
The payoff? A sleek, high-end shower that feels custom-built — because it is.
If you got value from this breakdown, definitely check out the full video linked above. And if you’re diving deeper into DIY or pro-level tile work, join the Tile Coach Forum or subscribe to my channel — we’re always sharing tips, tricks, and real-world lessons from the job site.
Until next time — stay plumb, stay level, and keep building smarter.
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