How to Do a Dry Pack Shower Pan for Tile Installation — The Easy Way!
- Isaac Ostrom
- Oct 9
- 7 min read
Updated: Oct 28
Hey guys, Isaac here from Tile Coach. Glad you’re checking this one out because we’re diving into one of the biggest questions I get from DIYers and homeowners: “How do I do a dry pack shower pan?”
If you’ve ever emailed me through TileCoach.com or hit me up in the comments, you know this one comes up a lot. A lot of people struggle with it their first time, and honestly, I get it—it’s one of those tile skills that seems intimidating until you actually do it. But once you get it, man, it’s a total game-changer.
Today I’m showing you my method for beginners — I like to call it “Dry Pack for Dummies” — a super simple, step-by-step approach that’s easy to follow and gets professional results without fancy tools or expensive foam pans.
So if you’ve been wanting to learn how to make that perfect mortar bed for your shower pan, you’re in the right place. Let’s get into it.
Key Takeaways for Homeowners & Pros (TL;DR)
A properly built dry pack pan gives you a strong, leak-free base for tile.
Deck mud costs about $6 a bag, versus $300–$400 for foam pans.
Always level your curb and mark accurate slope reference lines before mixing mud.
Shoot for a ¼-inch slope per foot toward the drain.
Mix your deck mud dry enough to hold shape but not crumble.
Work fast — speed matters to keep the mud from drying unevenly.
“Training wheels” (screed boards) make this method foolproof for beginners.
Why Go With Dry Pack?
First off, why even bother with dry pack when foam pans exist?
Well, for one — cost. A custom foam pan can run you $300–$400 easy, while deck mud costs about six bucks a bag. And you can shape it however you want. So whether you’ve got a funky drain layout or a non-standard shower size, you can make it perfect every time.
Also, learning to float a pan is a fundamental skill if you’re getting into tile professionally. Once you’ve done a few, you’ll use that same feel and control on curbs, shower floors, even large format tile installs.
Plus, the dry pack method gives you durability. A properly mixed and packed deck mud bed is rock solid, drains right, and lasts for decades.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Basic Tools:
Level (24–48 inches)
Sharpie or pencil for marking
Table saw or chop saw (for cutting screed boards)
Buckets for water and excess mud
Flat trowel & wood float
Notched trowel for slurry coat
Drill with mixing paddle (optional)
Tape measure
Utility knife
Heavy-duty trash bags (for mixing)
Sponge and clean rags
Materials:
Deck mud (like Sakrete Deck Mud or Mapei 4:1)
Water (measured precisely)
Cement backer board (Durock, Permabase, or similar)
Thinset mortar (for slurry coat)
Plastic sheeting and metal lath (if you’re on plywood)
Bonding flange drain (Schluter, Flow Effects, etc.)
Screed boards or MDF ledger boards
Step-by-Step: How to Do a Dry Pack Shower Pan
Step 1: Prepare Your Shower Base and Curb
Before anything, you need a level curb. I can’t stress this enough — if your curb isn’t level, your whole slope will be off.
In my video, I’m working on a mock-up using Permabase cement board (very similar to Durock). Whether your curb is built from 2x4s, foam, or bricks, make sure it’s perfectly level.
If it’s not, shim it, use thinset under your cement board, let it dry, then screw it down. Take your time here. This is your foundation.
Once you’ve got your curb level, grab your level and Sharpie. Mark a level line all the way around the walls, using the top of the curb as your reference. This will act as your benchmark for the whole job.
📍 Timestamp: around 1:30–2:00 in the video.
Step 2: Calculate Your Slope
Now we calculate the slope for drainage. The standard is ¼ inch per foot of run, though code allows between ¼ and ½ inch per foot.
Measure from the farthest point of the shower to the center of your drain flange (usually on a diagonal). Multiply that by ¼ inch per foot to find your height difference.
For example, in my mock-up, I had 18 inches to the drain, so I needed about ⅜ inch of rise.
Mark that point on the wall with another Sharpie line — that’s your dry pack height at the farthest corner.
📍 Timestamp: 2:40–4:10 in the video.
Step 3: Create and Install the Ledger Boards ("Training Wheels")
This is what makes my method so beginner-friendly.
Cut MDF or baseboard strips to match your slope height (mine were about 1¾ inches). These become your ledger boards or “training wheels.” Attach them level around the perimeter at your slope height.
Now, when you’re screeding the mud, you’ll use these as a physical guide. It’s foolproof — your slope and thickness will come out perfect.
📍 Timestamp: 5:15–8:00.
Step 4: Make the Screed Sticks
Next, make yourself some screed sticks. Cut notches in the ends of a few boards so they sit perfectly on top of your ledger boards and drain flange. I like having both a long and a short screed for different parts of the shower.
These let you drag and shape the mud exactly to your slope. Think of them as your “mud rails.”
📍 Timestamp: 9:00–10:15.
Step 5: Mix the Deck Mud
Here’s where a lot of DIYers mess up.
You want your deck mud to be just damp enough to hold shape when squeezed, like building a sandcastle. Too wet, and it’ll slump. Too dry, and it won’t pack.
I used Sakrete Deck Mud (4:1 sand-to-cement mix) and mixed 2½ to 3 quarts of water per 55-lb bag. I like the trash bag method — throw the bag into a heavy-duty plastic contractor bag, pour in water, then roll it around to mix. No dust cloud, no wheelbarrow mess.
If you prefer, you can also mix in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp with a hoe.
📍 Timestamp: 11:00–13:30.
Step 6: Apply the Slurry Coat
If you’re floating over concrete, you’ll want the mud to bond. So brush on a slurry coat of thinset — just thinset mixed a bit looser than normal. Use a notched trowel and cover the slab completely.
If you’re floating over plywood, skip the slurry. Instead, lay down plastic sheeting
and metal lath to separate the mud from the subfloor.
📍 Timestamp: 14:00–15:30.
Step 7: Pack and Screed the Mud
Now dump your mixed deck mud into the shower base. Start at the drain and work outward. Use your hands or a trowel to press the mud firmly under the bonding flange — that’s what supports your drain.
Once everything’s roughly in place, start screeding using your training wheels. I usually start in the corners, working my way around the perimeter first, then toward the center. Use steady pressure, and work fast. The longer you mess with it, the more it’ll crumble.
If you accidentally gouge too deep, no big deal — just toss more mud in and screed again. That’s the beauty of this method. It’s forgiving.
📍 Timestamp: 17:00–23:00.
Step 8: Fill Low Spots and Smooth
Once your slope and perimeter look good, switch to your wood float. Work in small circles, pressing down lightly. This fills any pits or air pockets and helps compact the mud.
Keep your float clean, and don’t press on the leading edge — it’ll dig in. Firm pressure on the back edge will smooth everything out perfectly.
📍 Timestamp: 27:00–29:30.
Step 9: Final Pass and Cleanup
Now, remove your ledger boards — the “training wheels.” Use a small trowel to fill in those gaps and smooth the edges.
Give it one last pass with your float or steel trowel to achieve a clean finish. The goal here is a smooth, even slope that directs water perfectly toward the drain.
📍 Timestamp: 32:00–33:30.
Step 10: Check Your Work
Grab your level and check around the perimeter and across your slope. You’re looking for:
Level perimeter lines
Consistent slope to the drain
No soft spots or hollows
It’s never going to be 100% perfect, but if your bubble’s close and your slope drains properly, you nailed it.
📍 Timestamp: 33:30–34:30.
Tips for Success
Speed matters. The faster you screed and finish, the better your mud will hold shape.
Don’t over-tamp. Light packing is plenty.
Use the training wheels or Mortar Lock Ledgers. They eliminate guesswork and make this method beginner-proof.
Check for pits early. Fill them while the mud’s workable.
Stay consistent. Keep your mud moisture and slope the same throughout the pan.
Frequently Asked TileCoach Questions (FAQ)
Q1: What’s the standard slope for a shower pan?
A: Typically ¼ inch per foot toward the drain. You can go up to ½ inch per foot depending on layout.
Q2: Can I use deck mud over plywood?
A: Yes, but you must first staple down metal lath and plastic sheeting. Don’t apply slurry to plywood.
Q3: How wet should my deck mud be?
A: Just damp enough to form a ball when squeezed — like sand at the beach. It shouldn’t drip water.
Q4: How many bags of deck mud do I need?
A: A 3x5 shower (15 sq. ft.) usually takes about three bags of 55-lb deck mud at 1" thickness.
Q5: How long should the mud cure before tiling?
A: Let it dry at least 24–48 hours before waterproofing or setting tile.
Final Thoughts
Alright guys, that’s the full beginner-friendly breakdown on how to do a dry pack shower pan. If you’ve been nervous about trying this, trust me — with this method, you can’t really mess it up. Those “training wheels” make it easy to get pro results even on your first go. Better yet, use the Mortar Lock Ledgers from Tilecoach.com.
This skill will save you hundreds of dollars and open up a whole new level of confidence for your tile projects. Whether you’re redoing your own bathroom or starting out as a pro, mastering dry pack is worth it.
If you want more hands-on help or one-on-one coaching, book your tile coaching session or join the forum. And as always — I love being your tile coach, and I’m here to help you build confidence. Until next time, happy tiling!