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How to Cut Tile Around Toilet Openings: Expert Tips & Techniques


What’s up everybody — Isaac here, your Tile Coach. In today’s episode, I’m showing you one of those cuts that always throws people off — how to cut tile around a toilet opening.


I get asked this question all the time because it looks tricky — you’ve got to make a big round cut right in the middle of a tile. A lot of folks assume you need some fancy hole saws or expensive jigs, but I’m gonna show you how to do it clean, fast, and safely using a simple Makita grinder with a diamond mesh rim blade.


Whether you’re a pro tile setter or a DIY homeowner, this method will save you time and stress on your next bathroom project. And the best part? You don’t need to make a perfect circle. I’ll explain why — and show you when it’s worth the extra effort.

Let’s jump in.





Key Takeaways [TLDR for Homeowners & Pros]


  • You don’t need a perfect circle—an octagon cut looks clean, fits tight, and the toilet base covers it.

  • Use a Makita 4½-inch grinder with a P4 mesh diamond blade for precise, smooth cuts.

  • Always mark your layout carefully using framing and speed squares.

  • Leave about ⅛ inch of wiggle room around the flange for easy fitting.

  • A circle cut looks nice but takes twice as long to cut as an octagon.

  • Always wear safety glasses, ear protection, and a dust mask.

  • Finish smart, not hard — the toilet covers the cut anyway!



Tools You’ll Need


Here’s what I used on this job:

  • Makita 4½" grinder (non–variable speed, 10,000–12,000 RPM)

  • Pearl Abrasives P4 mesh rim diamond blade

  • Framing square & speed square

  • Sharpie or marker

  • Tape measure

  • Safety glasses, respirator/dust mask, and hearing protection

  • Vacuum (optional, for dust control)


You don’t need to spend a fortune. The grinder runs about $60–70 and that P4 blade lasts forever if you’re not abusing it. This setup is perfect for both pros and DIYers.



Why This Method Works So Well


A toilet flange cut doesn’t have to be fancy — it just needs to fit right and stay hidden. The wax ring seals to the flange, not the tile, so even if your cut isn’t perfect, water won’t leak through it. The flange itself sits under the toilet, and once that toilet is set, no one will ever see your cut.


That’s why I love this method: it’s accurate, fast, and efficient. You’ll get a clean cut that fits tight without wasting time or risking a cracked tile.



Step-by-Step: How to Cut Tile Around a Toilet


Step 1. Marking Your Layout


Before you grab the grinder, get your layout right.

To start, mark a square line where your tile will sit. Around a toilet, space is usually tight — you might have a vanity on one side, a tub on the other — so make sure your tile pattern lines up cleanly with the rest of the floor.


Now, find the widest parts of your closet flange. The standard flange diameter is 7 inches, so I mark mine at 7¼ inches to give myself a little wiggle room — about ⅛ inch on each side.

That extra space makes it easier to drop the tile into place and adjust it if your layout is slightly off.



Step 2. Drawing the Square Outline


Use your speed square and framing square to mark the box around your flange outline. When you’re done, you’ll have a neat 7¼-inch by 7¼-inch square marked out on your tile.


This is your guide for both the octagon and circle cutting methods.



Step 3. Creating the Octagon Pattern


Now for the fun part — we’re gonna turn that square into an octagon.


Here’s how:

  1. Measure 2¾ inches diagonally from each corner.

  2. Mark that measurement on all four corners.

  3. Use your square to connect those marks — you’ll see an eight-sided shape form instantly.

This shape gives you clean, straight edges that are much easier to cut with a grinder than a perfect circle.



Step 4. Safety First


Before you fire up the grinder, gear up:

  • Put on safety glasses or goggles

  • Use a neoprene respirator or dust mask (my personal favorite)

  • Add ear protection

  • If possible, connect a vacuum for dust control


I’ve been using grinders for over 20 years, and I can’t stress this enough — protect your lungs, ears, and eyes.


And yes, you’ll notice in my video I run my grinder without a guard. Don’t do that. I’ve just been doing it so long that it’s habit — but seriously, keep your guard on.

(Do as I say, not as I do.)



Step 5. Making the Cut


With your layout marked and your PPE on, it’s time to cut.

  1. Hold your Makita 4½-inch grinder at a comfortable angle.

  2. Start slowly and follow your marked lines.

  3. Cut along each side of the octagon one by one.


This part goes quick — the octagon cut takes about 1 minute 45 seconds total.

When you’re done, the edges will look clean, and the toilet base will cover everything completely.



Step 6. Checking the Fit


Place the tile over the flange opening and check your fit. You should have an even ⅛-inch gap all around. That gives you just enough room for small layout adjustments or to fine-tune the fit once you set the tile.

Even if you cut a little wide, don’t sweat it — the toilet covers everything.



Step 7. Understanding How the Seal Works


A lot of people worry about water leaking into those small gaps, but here’s the truth: the wax ring seals the flange, not the tile.

When the toilet’s bolted down, the ring compresses between the toilet and flange, sealing the drain path. Any water that escapes would go down through the flange opening — not through the floor tile cut.

So unless you’re installing in a commercial wet area or steam room, a tight octagon cut is all you need.



Cutting a Perfect Circle (Optional)


Now, if you’re the type who wants that perfect circle — maybe for your own satisfaction, or you just like knowing it’s as clean as possible — you can totally do that too.

Here’s how to make a perfect circle cut using the same grinder and blade.


Step 1. Mark the Circle


You’ll notice that a 7¼-inch circular saw blade is the exact same diameter as your flange layout. So here’s my trick: just grab an old circular saw blade, center it over your flange marks, and trace around it with your Sharpie.

Boom. Perfect circle, no compass needed.



Step 2. Cut the Circle


Now for the cut itself. Hold your grinder at a slight angle and carefully work your way around the line, cutting a little bit at a time.

The P4 mesh rim blade really helps here — it cuts cleanly from multiple angles without chipping or binding.

It’ll take a little more time and finesse than the octagon. The circle cut usually takes about 3 minutes 50 seconds, roughly twice as long as the octagon cut.

You’ll have to hold the grinder steady and keep light pressure to avoid torquing the blade. Go slow and let the blade do the work.



Step 3. Compare the Results


Both cuts — octagon and circle — fit perfectly under the toilet. The only difference? The circle cut looks nice if you’re showing it off, but it’s completely hidden once the toilet’s installed.

So, ask yourself: is that extra two minutes worth it? Up to you.

Personally, I’ll take the octagon every time — it’s faster, cleaner, and gets buried under the toilet anyway.



Common Mistakes to Avoid


  • Cutting too tight: Always leave that ⅛-inch gap. Tight cuts can crack when the toilet’s set.

  • Skipping PPE: Tile dust is no joke. Always mask up.

  • Rushing the layout: Measure twice, cut once. Make sure your marks line up with the grout joints.

  • Using the wrong blade: Cheap blades chip porcelain and wander off-line. Stick with a quality mesh rim diamond blade.



Time Comparison: Octagon vs. Circle

Cut Type

Time to Complete

Difficulty

Visual Difference

Octagon

~1 minute 45 seconds

Easy

Hidden by toilet

Circle

~3 minutes 50 seconds

Moderate

Hidden by toilet

Winner: Octagon Cut. Fast, easy, and looks just as good once the toilet’s installed.



Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)


Q: Can I cut the tile with the guard off the grinder? 

Technically yes, but don’t. It’s a major safety risk. Always keep your guard on unless you’re an experienced pro and understand the risks.


Q: Do I need to grout around the toilet cutout? 

No, it’s not necessary. The toilet and wax ring seal the area. If you prefer, you can grout or silicone the visible perimeter after the toilet’s set.


Q: What if I chip the edge while cutting? 

Small chips won’t matter — the toilet covers it. For larger chips, smooth them with a diamond hand pad or re-cut slightly wider.


Q: Should I cut a circle instead of an octagon? 

Not unless you want to. The toilet covers both cuts. Octagon is faster and perfectly fine.


Q: What’s the ideal grinder speed? 

A standard 10,000–12,000 RPM grinder works great. Just keep a steady hand and don’t force the blade.



Final Thoughts and Community Shoutout


That’s how you cut tile around a toilet — fast, clean, and professional-looking without any fancy tools.


I know a lot of people overthink this cut, but once you try the octagon method, you’ll see how easy it is. It’s all about layout, patience, and using the right blade.

Before I wrap up, I’ve got to say — the support from this community has been absolutely incredible. Recently, we raised enough money through the channel to build Little Bo a brand-new bathroom, and that’s all because of you guys.


When I started Tile Coach, I had no idea it would grow into this family of tradespeople, homeowners, and DIYers who lift each other up. Whether you’re new to the trade or been setting tile for 20 years, we all keep learning from each other — and that’s what makes this community awesome.


So if you’re in a place where you’re unsure about your path — check out the Tile Coach Forum or book a coaching session—I love helping other setters dial in their craft. . Or, Find a good crew or mentor who’s willing to teach you. There’s plenty of good builders and tile setters out there who’ll help you grow.


And as always — I love being your Tile Coach. Thanks for watching, thanks for supporting, and thanks for building something amazing alongside me.

Until next time — keep cutting, keep tiling, and keep learning.

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