How to Tile a Shower Wall Like a Pro — Story Poles, Leveling, and Precision Cuts (Full Guide)

Isaac Ostrom
Oct 6
7 min read

Updated: Oct 8

Welcome back to the Tile Coach blog! I’m Isaac Ostrom — licensed tile and general contractor out of Northern California — and in this post, I’m walking you through how to tile a shower wall the right way.

This tutorial was filmed on-site in Denver, Colorado, during a shower project where we installed large-format 12x24 polished porcelain tiles.

Whether you’re a homeowner taking on your first shower install or a seasoned tile pro looking to refine your technique, this guide breaks down every step — from building your story pole and marking grout joints to leveling for ceiling height, applying thinset, collapsing ridges for 95% coverage, and finishing off with those perfect scribe cuts along the ceiling and base.

If you want clean grout joints, consistent tile layout, and a pro-level finish, this one’s for you.

🎥 Watch the Full Tutorial

Key Takeaways for Homeowners & Tile Pros (TLDR)

Use a story pole to mark grout joints and keep your layout consistent.
Always identify the high point of the ceiling before setting your layout.
Begin your install with a full tile at the bottom and save your skirt pieces for last.
Use ring shank drywall nails to secure your story pole without damaging waterproofing.
Apply Non-Sag Lightweight thinset for extended open time and excellent adhesion.
Try to get 95% coverage behind each tile — no voids!
Keep joints clean before thinset hardens to prevent grout issues later.
Use hollow spacers that can be left in for simplicity and precision.
Always check for level and plumb every few rows.
Use the wet tile scribe method for clean, accurate cuts on uneven ceilings.

Tools & Materials You’ll Need

Story pole (marked stick or scrap wood)
Tape measure & laser level
Ring shank drywall nails
12x24 porcelain tiles
Lightweight modified thinset (or similar premium adhesive)
½-inch or Sawtooth notch trowel & margin trowel
Tile spacers or Leveling Clips
Blue shop rags & clean sponge
Level & wedges
Grinder or wet saw for scribing cuts
Waterproofing membrane
LATICRETE SpectraLOCK ONE grout, Prism Grout, or Mapei Ultracolor FA

Step 1: Building and Using a Story Pole (00:00:49)

A story pole is one of the most underrated tools in professional tile installation. It’s essentially a stick — marked to show where each grout joint will fall — and it becomes your visual roadmap for the entire layout.

Isaac explains:

“If you’re not familiar with what a story pole is, it’s basically a stick you use to mark where the grout joints are gonna be. Then when you go into the room, you can butt it up to the ceiling and know exactly where all your tile joints will land.”

To make one:

Lay out a few tiles on the floor with spacers between them.
Use a Sharpie to mark the position of each grout joint on your stick.
Label your marks to match your intended wall order.

This method ensures every joint lines up perfectly, especially if you’re wrapping corners or tiling multiple walls in sequence.

Step 2: Checking Waterproofing & Surface Prep (00:02:29)

Before setting tile, ensure your waterproofing is dry, flat, and fully bonded. Isaac uses a combination of sheet membrane and liquid waterproofing membrane, which provides a durable, perfectly flat surface for tiling. He notes:

“Our waterproofing dried beautifully. It’s such a nice flat surface — I can’t wait to start setting tile on it.”

A clean, even substrate is critical for a flawless finish — any dips or humps will telegraph through the tile, especially with large-format porcelain.

Step 3: Finding the High Point of the Ceiling (00:03:02)

Ceilings are never perfectly level — even in new builds. Isaac stresses the importance of locating the high point before you start your layout:

“If you’re tiling to your ceiling, you need to find the high point. You don’t want to tile up to the low part of the ceiling and then cut in a sliver at the top.”

Here’s how to find it:

Set up a laser level across the shower.
Measure from the laser line to the ceiling at multiple points.
The smallest measurement indicates your high point.

In this project, Isaac measured several corners and found the high point at 57 and 5/8 inches. That’s where he aligned his story pole to ensure the top tile row landed perfectly flush against the ceiling without a tiny cut.

Step 4: Setting Your First Tile and Story Pole (00:05:06)

Now that your layout’s marked, it’s time to set your story pole on the wall. Isaac prefers starting with a full tile at the bottom of the wall rather than at the top:

“I always like to start with my first full tile and then I’ll set the floor later. That way I can scribe that bottom piece perfectly to the floor after it’s done.”

ProTip: If you start on a cut tile and stack upward, gravity will fight you — especially on wedges. The full-tile-first approach keeps your layout clean and avoids sagging.

Use ring shank drywall nails to attach the story pole. Don’t drive them too deep — just enough to hold it firmly without damaging your waterproof membrane.

Step 5: Mixing and Applying Thinset (00:08:25)

I use a premium lightweight modified thinset that offers 40 minutes of open time — a big plus when working with large-format tiles.

Tips for Application:

Use a ½-inch notch trowel for even coverage.
Spread the thinset using the flat side first to coat the surface.
Then, comb it with the notched side in straight, consistent lines.
Move each tile side to side slightly to collapse the ridges — ensuring that 95% coverage required by TCNA standards.

I explains it well at 13:39:

“If you just push it straight on, those ridges won’t collapse all the way. But if you move it side to side, it collapses perfectly and fills the voids.”

Step 6: Keeping Things Clean as You Go (00:15:22)

Tile pros know — staying clean during install saves hours later. Isaac demonstrates wiping off thinset before inserting spacers:

“When you go to grout it later, that thinset will be like cutting through steel if you don’t clean it out now.”

He uses blue shop rags — not sponges soaked in water — to avoid saturating his hands or washing out the thinset.

“Try to keep your hands out of the water as much as you can. Those blue rags work great — they wipe stuff off without being soaking wet.”

Step 7: Using Spacers and Maintaining Joints (00:16:45)

I recommend hollow spacers or leveling clips that can be left in place. You can push them all the way in, and you don’t have to take them out. I always put spacers on either side of the tile so you can get it in there nice and snug.

Keeping your joints consistent throughout the wall is what separates a clean install from an amateur one.

Use your story pole and laser to cross-check spacing and alignment as you go.

Step 8: Level Checking Every Few Courses (00:10:00)

After every two to three rows, grab your level and check both vertically and horizontally. If you’re a beginner, check it every course or two. I did three here because I knew my walls were perfectly plumb, but that’s key — keep checking as you go.

This ensures your joints don’t drift, especially over large walls.

Step 9: Handling Out-of-Level Ceilings (00:18:22)

When the ceiling isn’t square, you’ll need to scribe your top tiles to fit. My quick trick:

Flip the tile upside down.
Mark the grout joint line on the back of the tile.
Transfer that mark to the front of the tile and make your cut.

It’s really accurate — and it saves you from complicated measurements.

This wet tile scribe technique gives you a clean, consistent top row even when the ceiling dips or waves.

Step 10: Installing Skirt Pieces and Base Tiles (00:20:18)

Once your wall tiles are set and dried, it’s time to install the skirt pieces (the bottom row along the shower base).

If you were trying to put wedges under your wall tile and start from the floor, the whole wall’s weight pushes down, and the wedges can kick out. That’s why I stack off the stick — you avoid all that fighting.

To finish:

Scribe the skirt tile to follow the floor’s contour.
Use wedges sparingly to achieve a tight, even joint at the bottom.
Check that your final row maintains level and clean spacing.

This ensures a seamless transition from wall to floor — the mark of a polished professional job.

Step 11: Grouting and Maintenance Tips

After 24–48 hours of curing, Isaac uses a high-performance pre-mixed grout that offers color consistency, stain resistance, and strength.

Wipe down all surfaces before grouting and maintain clean joints. Once grouted, polish your tiles with a microfiber towel for that crisp final look.

FAQ — Frequently Asked Tile Coach Questions

Q1: What’s the benefit of a story pole? A story pole helps mark grout joint locations accurately before setting tile, ensuring consistent spacing and preventing layout mistakes — especially helpful for wrapping corners.

Q2: How do I find the high point of my ceiling? Use a laser level and measure to the ceiling at several points. The smallest measurement indicates your high point — align your story pole there to avoid awkward sliver cuts.

Q3: Why start with a full tile instead of a cut? Starting with a full tile ensures visual balance and simplifies future scribing at the base or ceiling. It also prevents sagging that can occur when stacking heavy tiles on wedges.

Q4: What thinset should I use? Isaac recommends a lightweight, modified, non-sag thinset mortar for porcelain tile installs. It’s lightweight, tacky, and provides a long open time for precision work.

Q5: How do I keep grout joints clean? Wipe thinset out of joints before inserting spacers. Once it cures, it’s nearly impossible to remove without damaging tiles.

Q6: Can I leave spacers in? Yes — hollow spacers and leveling clips can safely remain in the wall and won’t affect grout bonding.

Q7: Why is 95% coverage required? TCNA standards require 95% coverage in wet areas to prevent water intrusion and tile failure. Moving tiles side-to-side collapses ridges and eliminates voids.

Q8: What’s the easiest way to deal with an uneven ceiling? Use Isaac’s wet tile scribe method — flip the tile, mark your joint, and cut based on the ceiling’s contour for perfect fitment.

Final Thoughts: Precision, Patience, and Practice

Installing a shower wall is as much about preparation and process as it is about product. With the right tools — a story pole, good thinset, proper waterproofing, and some patience — you can achieve a flawless, professional-quality tile job.

If you found this guide helpful, be sure to subscribe to the Tile Coach YouTube channel, and check out our Tile Coach Forum where pros and DIYers share techniques, tools, and real-world tile troubleshooting.

Keep those tiles straight and your grout lines clean — we’ll see you on the next project.