How to Install a Tile Shower Pan in Under 30 Minutes

When it comes to shower construction, it’s easy to overcomplicate things. Between pan liners, hot mops, Schluter systems, and all the different waterproofing methods, most homeowners—and even some contractors—get overwhelmed.

In this project, we’re going to keep it simple. Using a Tile Redi custom shower pan, I’ll walk you through how to install it correctly in less than 30 minutes. This is one of the most reliable, time-saving methods for building a leak-proof shower base, and it’s perfect whether you’re a DIYer or a seasoned tile setter.

TileCoach Expert Shows How to Install a Tile Shower Pan in Under 30 Minutes

Key Takeaways for Homeowners & Pros [TLDR Version]

• Use a laser level to check subfloors accurately.

• Keep the drain pipe flush with the subfloor for compression drains.

• Don’t overcomplicate—the simplest method is often the most reliable.

• Always flood test before moving on to tile.

Why Tile Redi Pans Are a Game Changer

Just a few weeks ago, I was called back to a job where a contractor had completely botched a curbless shower install. They had applied RedGard directly over plywood, tried to slope the pan with thinset instead of mortar, skipped waterproofing on the walls, and even managed to pitch the floor backwards so water drained toward the toilet instead of the shower.

After only one month of use, the shower was leaking badly. At that point, the only solution was to rip it out and start fresh.

That’s where Tile Redi comes in. These pans are:

• Customizable – Order the exact size, curb height, and drain placement you need.

• Fast to install – No need for hot mop, membranes, or complicated waterproofing systems.

• Compatible with Flo FX grates – Giving you hundreds of style options.

For Brett’s shower, we ordered a custom Tile Redi pan, and once it arrived, the whole install was ready to go.

Step 1: Preparing the Subfloor

The key to a proper pan installation is a flat, level, solid subfloor. In Brett’s case, we had a plywood base. The drain stub-out was in place, but I left it long for now because I wanted to double-check its height with a dry fit.

Pro Tip: You can cut the drain pipe flush with the subfloor. That way, when you use the compression-style drain fitting, it sits perfectly. I like to mark the pipe with tape using the plywood surface as a guide before making the cut. A little spit on the pipe helps it seat fully into the hub for measuring purposes.

Another option is to leave the pipe long, and cut it to the appropriate height with an inside pipe cutter after the pan is installed.

Step 2: Checking for Level

Even the best homes have imperfections in the floor. I found a few low joists under this shower, which meant the plywood dipped slightly in the middle.

To check, I used a 360° laser level instead of a bubble level. The laser is far more accurate—you can quickly spot where shims are needed and avoid playing “telephone” with a traditional level where the measurements drift over distance.

For spots that were 1/16”–3/16” low, I used horseshoe shims and added extra thinset in those areas when bedding the pan.

Step 3: Spreading Thinset

For foam pans like Tile Redi, I recommend using a ½” x ½” notched trowel. This lays down enough mortar to provide the pan with a solid bed and support, without leaving excess voids of thinset.

Before setting the pan, I also buttered low spots with extra thinset based on my laser measurements. This way, when I pressed the pan down, it squished evenly and leveled itself out.

Pro Tip: If your floor is more than ¼” out of level, consider using a self-leveler before installation. Thinset can handle minor adjustments, but not major ones.

Step 4: Dropping in the Pan

Here’s where the “KISS” principle comes in—Keep It Simple, Stupid. 

Instead of messing around with pre-slopes, liners, or complicated waterproofing methods, I simply dropped the Tile Redi pan into place. Since Brett’s doorway trim made it a tight squeeze, I walked the pan down carefully at an angle.

Once in, I pressed firmly starting at the high points, letting the thinset bed everything evenly. Checking level on the curb (not the pan surface) confirmed it was perfect.

Step 5: Connecting the Compression Drain

The compression-style drain fitting is what makes Tile Redi installs so versatile.

Here’s how it works:

1. Slide the compression ring over the drain pipe.

2. Drop the pan in place.

3. Thread on the castle nut, which has little teeth that tighten with a flathead or specialty key.

4. As you tighten, the ring compresses against the pipe, creating a watertight seal.

This method is proven—it’s the same system used on cast iron and acrylic shower pans, with millions of installs nationwide.

Step 6: Water Testing

In Sacramento County (and many other jurisdictions), inspectors require a flood test before approving a shower pan. To test Brett’s, I inserted an inflatable test plug, filled the base with water, and let it sit.

Since the Tile Redi pan is factory-sealed, the only thing being tested here was the drain connection. Everything held perfectly, so we were ready to move forward with wallboard and tile.

Lessons From the Field: The Value of Simplicity

Tile installation is full of complicated systems that often confuse both contractors and homeowners. But sometimes, the best solution is the simplest one.

That’s why I lean so heavily on the KISS principle. By keeping things straightforward—like using a pre-sloped, waterproof Tile Redi pan—we eliminate many failure points and save both time and money.

And this lesson doesn’t just apply to tiling. As I mentioned in the video, it’s something I first learned from my college football coach, and it’s carried me through life and business. Hard work, simplicity, and teamwork go a long way, whether you’re on the field or on a job site.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Can I install a Tile Redi pan over an uneven subfloor? A: Yes, but the subfloor should be corrected first. If it’s less than ¼” out of level, you can use thinset and shims to make adjustments. Anything more than that requires a self-leveling compound before installation.

Q: Do I need special tools to install the compression drain? A: No. A flathead screwdriver or even a chisel will fit into the provided drain key to tighten the castle nut.

Q: How do I know if my shower pan is level? A: Always check with a laser level or spirit level placed on the top of the curb and the top of the splash wall (not the pan floor). The curb and splash wall are the true reference points for ensuring everything drains properly.

Q: What types of drain pipes work with compression fittings? A: Tile Redi pans are compatible with ABS, PVC, Cast iron, and copper pipes. Each requires a different size of rubber gasket, so ensure you order the correct one when purchasing your pan.

Q: Can I install Tile Redi pans on a slab foundation? A: Yes. That’s where compression drains really shine because you can tighten everything from above without needing crawlspace access.

Q: Are Tile Redi pans code-approved? A: Yes. They are factory-sealed, meet plumbing code requirements, and pass inspection when installed correctly. Always check your local jurisdiction for specific approval guidelines.

Final Thoughts

For Brett, switching to a Tile Redi custom shower pan solved what could have been a long-term headache. Instead of worrying about waterproofing details or pan slope, we installed a factory-sealed, code-approved system that takes under 30 minutes to complete.

If you’re building or remodeling a shower, and especially if you’ve struggled with traditional pan installs in the past, I highly recommend considering Tile Redi. It’s one of the easiest ways to guarantee a watertight, long-lasting shower base.

Stay tuned for Part 2 of this project, where we’ll tile the walls and finish Brett’s shower.