How To Finish Tile Edge With Miter — NO BULLNOSE!
- Isaac Ostrom
- Oct 14
- 7 min read
What’s up everybody, Isaac here. Today I’m taking you right onto the job site with me to show you how I finished this shower tile edge with a clean miter—no bullnose, no bulky trim, just a sleek pro look using the Schluter Finec profile.
We’re on Day Five of this porcelain shower install, and this is where all the prep work starts paying off. The walls are floated, plumb, and flat—so every cut fits perfect. This is one of those jobs where precision and patience come together to make everything look like it came straight from the factory.
If you’ve ever wondered how to get that tight, sharp edge without relying on bulky trims or awkward bullnose tiles, this one’s for you.
Key Takeaways for Homeowners & Pros [TLDR Version]
Plumb walls = perfect cuts. Floating and leveling your walls ensures every cut matches exactly.
Pre-cut before setting. Saves time and guarantees consistency on mitered edges.
Use the right thinset & trowel technique. Flat trowel first, then notch for full coverage without the mess.
Wiggle tiles perpendicular to the notches. Collapses ridges for 100% TCNA-approved coverage.
Mitered edges + Schluter Finec = clean, modern look. No need for bullnose or bulky trims.
In cold climates, skip the niches. Go with built-in shampoo shelves instead of uninsulated wall cavities.
Use wedges and levels throughout. Keeps everything aligned and your joints consistent.
Embed the Schluter strip in thinset. Don’t slip it under after setting—the bond is tighter and cleaner.
Tools Required
Half-inch by half-inch notched trowel
Multi-Max Light thinset mortar
Diamond hand pad (for polishing cut edges)
Ring shank nails
Redwood float strips
2-foot level
Wedges
Schluter Finec profile
Tile saw (for miter cuts)
Sponge, margin trowel, and grout float
Preparing Walls for Tile Installation
Flat and Plumb Walls Make or Break the Job
Here’s the deal: flat isn’t enough—you need plumb. Flat makes the surface even, but plumb makes every cut consistent top to bottom.
I floated these walls to make sure they’re both flat and perfectly vertical. That means when I start setting, I already know every single cut will match. You’ll never get that if your wall’s off by even a little bit.
If you’ve ever had cuts that taper weird or joints that open up toward the top, it’s probably because your wall isn’t plumb. Float it right, and everything just falls into place.
Pre-Cutting for Efficiency
Because these walls are dead plumb, I was able to cut every tile for the sidewall before even mixing thinset. When your layout’s tight and consistent, you can pre-cut with confidence.
This is a huge time saver—especially when you’re working with large-format porcelain. It also keeps your miters consistent and your layout predictable.
Plus, if you’re working with high-end tiles like the Emser porcelain I used here, you want to handle them carefully. Pre-cutting and dry-fitting first means fewer adjustments, fewer chips, and less waste.
Thinset Application: The Foundation of a Perfect Install
Start with the Flat Side
Before you even grab the notched side of your trowel, use the flat side to spread a thin coat of mortar across the wall. This burns the mortar into the substrate and evens out any small voids.
I’m using Multi-Max Light, which is great for large format tiles, but it’s got a tendency to fling off your trowel if you move too fast. Slow it down a bit and focus on clean, even strokes. You’ll thank yourself later when you’re not scraping thinset off everything within a 10-foot radius.
Then Switch to the Notched Side
Once your base layer’s smooth, go back over with your half-inch by half-inch notched side. This notch size is perfect for large porcelain—anything over 15 inches on a side. It gives you plenty of mortar for solid coverage without excess squeeze-out.
Keep those ridges straight and consistent. This is where your coverage comes from.
Tile Setting Technique: Collapsing the Ridges
Here’s a big one that most people skip or don’t understand fully. When you set your tile, wiggle it perpendicular to your trowel lines.
Why? Because that collapses all the ridges of thinset underneath the tile, giving you 100% contact between the tile and the wall.
If you’re not doing that, you’re probably leaving air pockets under there—and that’s how tiles pop loose or sound hollow later. The Tile Council of North America (TCNA) lays this out clearly in the first 30–40 pages of their handbook. If you haven’t read it, go check it out. It’s gold.
And just so you know, I don’t back butter these tiles. This thinset is sticky enough that I don’t need to. When you collapse the ridges properly, you’re getting full coverage anyway.
Cutting and Finishing the Miters
All right, now let’s talk about that sexy part—the mitered edge.
These mitered cuts are what make the edge look seamless and custom. No plastic caps, no bullnose, just tile meeting tile in a sharp line. You’ll need a steady hand and a well-tuned saw for this.
After cutting, I hit each edge with a diamond hand pad. That takes off any microchips and leaves the cut looking like it came from the factory. The key is not rushing this step—clean miters are what separate a “decent” install from a high-end one.
Once those miters are cut, we’re ready to integrate the Schluter Finec profile.
Using Schluter Finec Profiles for Mitered Edges
This is a relatively new profile from Schluter, designed specifically for protecting mitered edges.
I wasn’t thrilled with the bullnose options on this project, so the Finec was a perfect solution—it keeps that sleek, modern edge but still gives your tile the protection it needs.
Now, when installing long Schluter strips like this, you’ve got two options:
Slip it in under the tile afterward, or
Embed it in thinset before setting the tile.
I always go with option two. When you embed it first, that profile gets locked in tight. It’s not going anywhere, and you don’t risk gaps or movement later.
Here’s how I do it: I apply a bit of thinset to the edge of the tile before setting, then press it into the profile as I go. The bond is super clean, and you get that crisp edge that looks machine-finished.
Installing Built-In Shampoo Shelves Instead of Niches
You might notice we skipped the traditional shampoo niches on this shower. That’s because this home’s in Denver, and both sidewalls are exterior walls.
Cutting a niche into an exterior wall in a cold climate? Bad idea. You’re basically punching a hole in your insulation. Instead, I used these custom-built shampoo shelves—one low for a footrest and a couple higher up for bottles.
They’re simple, clean, and don’t compromise the wall’s insulation. Plus, with miters on the edges, they tie in perfectly with the overall design.
Leveling, Wedges, and Final Adjustments
I use plastic wedges and a two-foot level to keep every row consistent. This lets me make micro-adjustments without overworking the thinset or contaminating the level.
Because the walls were floated ahead of time, I don’t have to worry about adding or taking away thinset behind each tile. I just spread, set, and go. That consistency makes the process smooth and efficient—and it keeps your joints tight and clean.
Locking in the Schluter Profile
Once the tiles are up, I apply a touch of thinset along the exposed tile edge to lock the Schluter Finec in place. It’s cleaner, tighter, and more durable than trying to slide it in afterward.
After everything’s set, that Finec edge gives you a beautiful finish—no bulky trim,
no exposed edges—just clean lines and that professional touch that clients always notice.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why is it important to have plumb walls before tiling?
Plumb walls ensure that every cut lines up perfectly from top to bottom. It also means you can pre-cut tiles, saving time and ensuring tight, consistent joints.
What size trowel notch should I use for large-format tiles?
Use a ½-inch by ½-inch notched trowel for anything 15 inches or larger on one side. It provides enough mortar coverage to avoid voids under the tile.
Do I need to back butter my tiles?
Not necessarily. If you’re collapsing the ridges correctly and using a quality thinset, you’ll achieve 100% coverage without back buttering.
Why use Schluter Finec instead of bullnose or other trims?
The Finec profile gives a sleek, modern look while still protecting the tile edges. It’s designed for miters and eliminates the need for bulky or mismatched bullnose pieces.
Can I use recessed niches in cold climates?
Not recommended. Exterior wall niches can lead to insulation problems and moisture issues. Built-in corner shelves or floating shelves are a better option.
How do I get factory-quality miters without chipping?
Use a sharp blade, slow your feed rate, and finish every cut with a diamond hand pad. This removes microchips and gives your edge a smooth, professional finish.
Final Thoughts
Man, I’ve gotta say—I love how this one turned out. The mitered edges with the Schluter Finec profile just make the whole shower pop. Everything looks super clean, the shelves are functional, and the details all line up perfectly.
If you take the time to float your walls, pre-cut your tiles, and use the right thinset and technique, this kind of precision becomes possible.
Whether you’re a pro setter or a DIYer stepping up your tile game, mastering these steps will take your work to that next level.
And hey, if you want to keep learning tips like this, check out the Tile Coach Forum or book a coaching session—I love helping other setters dial in their craft.
Until next time—keep those tiles straight, your joints clean, and your edges sharp.
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