Easiest Way to Waterproof OVER a Dry Pack Shower Pan — Hydro Ban Liquid Membrane
- Isaac Ostrom
- Oct 21
- 7 min read
Updated: Oct 22
Hey guys — Isaac here, your Tile Coach. Today, we’re talking about one of the most important steps in any shower build: waterproofing. Whether you’re a tile setter, a remodeler, or a weekend DIYer taking on your first shower project, this step will make or break your installation.
In this post, I’ll walk you through the entire process of applying Laticrete Hydro Ban liquid waterproofing membrane over a dry pack shower pan and cement board walls.
This method gives you a durable, flexible, and watertight barrier that will protect your installation for decades. It’s also easier to apply than sheet membranes like Kerdi or Hydro Ban Sheet, which can wrinkle, crease, or trap bubbles.
Before we dive in, if you haven’t yet watched my previous videos on how to install the Flo-fx drain and build a proper dry pack mortar bed, I recommend starting there — links are in the show notes. Once your drain and mortar bed are in and cured, you’re ready for Hydro Ban.
Let’s get to it.
Key Takeaways (TLDR for Pros & DIYers)
Use Hydro Ban on cured mortar only — allow at least 3 days for the dry pack to fully cure.
Apply two even coats, not one thick one. Each coat should dry to a smooth, uniform green finish.
No fabric reinforcement required — Hydro Ban is self-reinforcing and bridges small cracks and seams.
Use both a roller and a brush — roller for flat areas, brush for corners and drains.
Avoid thick build-up — it slows drying and can cause uneven curing.
Allow 24 hours after final coat before starting tile installation.
Color change = drying indicator — light green when wet, dark olive green when dry.
Protect your tools between coats with a sealed plastic bag to prevent drying out.
Understanding Hydro Ban
Laticrete Hydro Ban is a liquid-applied, thin waterproofing and crack isolation membrane designed for tile and stone installations. Unlike sheet membranes that require overlapping seams and embedded fabric, Hydro Ban rolls or brushes on like paint.
Why I Recommend It
No Fabric Reinforcement: Hydro Ban bonds tightly to surfaces and flexes with minor movement, eliminating the need for extra fabric in corners or seams.
No Wrinkles or Bubbles: It creates a continuous waterproof layer without seams.
Ease of Application: If you can paint, you can apply Hydro Ban.
Durability: It resists mold, mildew, and cracking.
Professional Reliability: It’s ANSI A118.10 compliant and approved for both commercial and residential wet areas.
I’ve used them all — RedGard, Mapei AquaDefense, and others — but Hydro Ban remains my go-to. It’s more expensive, yes, but worth every penny for the consistency, coverage, and long-term reliability.
Project Setup
Before we start waterproofing, let’s talk about the prep. My setup includes:
A Flo-fx drain system, already installed.
A dry pack mortar bed, fully cured and smoothed.
PermaBase cement board on the walls, seams taped with 2-inch alkali-resistant mesh tape.
All joints and seams pre-filled with thinset mortar, cured for 24 hours.
Important:
If you’re working over mortar, always allow a minimum of 3 full days of curing before applying Hydro Ban. Moisture trapped in fresh mortar can cause adhesion issues or slow drying times.
Once everything is clean, dust-free, and solid, we’re ready to roll — literally.
Tools You’ll Need
You don’t need a lot of tools for this job, but the right ones make it go smoothly:
3-inch paintbrush – for corners, seams, and drain areas.
3/8-inch nap roller – for large wall and floor surfaces.
Paint tray or bucket – to load the roller evenly.
Utility gloves – protect your hands; Hydro Ban is sticky stuff.
Plastic bags or wrap – to store brushes between coats and prevent drying out.
Step 1: Applying the First Coat
Here’s where the fun begins.
Start by mixing the Hydro Ban thoroughly — no thinning or additives needed. Then, pour a small amount into your tray and get your brush and roller ready.
Brush Work
I always start with the brush first, cutting in around the perimeter, seams, and the drain flange. Be generous but even. Your goal is complete coverage without heavy buildup.
Hydro Ban goes on a light olive green color. As it dries, it will darken to a deep sage green — that’s your visual cue that it’s ready for the next coat.
Pay special attention to:
Corners and transitions (floor-to-wall, wall-to-wall)
Around the drain flange
Screw heads or fastener penetrations
Once those are sealed, switch to your roller for the flat areas.
Rolling the Main Areas
Use your 3/8-inch roller for the walls and pan. Roll evenly, overlapping strokes slightly to prevent thin spots.
The first coat should look like a thin paint layer — wet enough to cover but not dripping or pooling.
Pro Tip: Don’t overwork the roller. If it stops spinning, that’s okay — it can actually help you lay down a thicker, smoother film.
When you’re done, go back over detailed areas with the brush again to even everything out.
Step 2: Drying and Tool Care
The first coat takes about 3–4 hours to dry, depending on temperature and humidity.
You’ll know it’s dry when the surface changes from that olive tone to a darker, consistent green, and it feels smooth to the touch — not tacky.
While it’s drying, here’s a pro tip to save time:
Don’t wash your brush and roller between coats. Instead, place them inside a plastic bag (like a grocery bag or plastic sheet) and squeeze the air out. This keeps them from hardening while the first coat cures, so they’re ready to go again later.
Step 3: Applying the Second Coat
Once the first coat is completely dry, it’s time for coat number two.
This coat ensures full waterproof coverage and hides any thinset marks or surface variations.
I like to use the roller like a big paintbrush for this coat — not spinning, just gliding. This technique lays down more material evenly.
Roll horizontally this time (if your first coat was vertical) to get full crosshatch coverage. After the walls and floor are rolled, go back in with your brush and touch up edges, corners, and the drain area again.
Coverage Tip:
After the second coat, you shouldn’t see any text, writing, or board color showing through — the membrane should be completely opaque.
Once done, let the second coat cure for at least 24 hours before beginning tile work.
Step 4: Inspecting and Testing
Once cured, inspect your work carefully.
Check that the membrane is uniform in color — no lighter green or shiny thin areas.
Look for any pinholes or missed spots.
If you find exposed patches, apply a small touch-up coat.
You can also perform a quick water test: lightly sprinkle water over the surface. It should bead up immediately instead of soaking in. That’s how you know your Hydro Ban film is continuous and sealed.
Pro Tips for Applying Hydro Ban
1. Avoid Applying Too Thick
Thicker isn’t better. Heavy buildup can trap moisture and cause cracking or peeling. Two thinner coats are stronger and cure faster.
2. Watch the Color Change
Hydro Ban’s color change is your built-in drying gauge. Don’t apply your second coat until the first is fully darkened.
3. Even Coats for Even Cures
Uneven coating = uneven drying. Roll in consistent directions for smooth coverage.
4. Use Both Brush and Roller
Brush handles corners; roller does the flats. Combining both gives a smoother finish.
5. Store Tools Smart
Wrap brushes and rollers airtight between coats to save cleanup time and keep them usable.
Troubleshooting Common Mistakes
Problem: Bubbles or wrinkles
Cause: Over-rolling or applying too thick.
Fix: Smooth with a brush immediately. Allow it to dry, then add another thin coat if needed.
Problem: Uneven color or dull patches
Cause: Thin areas or incomplete coverage.
Fix: Roll on an additional thin coat after curing.
Problem: Peeling or poor adhesion
Cause: Substrate not fully cured or contaminated with dust/oil.
Fix: Always clean and allow the base to dry completely before applying.
Benefits of Hydro Ban Over Sheet Membranes
While sheet membranes work great in certain applications, Hydro Ban simplifies the process:
No seams or overlaps.
No fabric tape to embed.
No creasing or trapped air pockets.
Easy to apply even in complex shapes or slopes.
Flexible and self-leveling finish.
For pros, that means faster turnaround and less chance of installation errors. For DIYers, it means an easier learning curve and a truly waterproof system without the frustration of managing sheet seams.
When It’s Ready for Tile
After the final coat dries for 24 hours, you’re good to start tiling.
Before applying thinset, make sure there’s no standing water, dust, or film on the surface. You can tile directly over Hydro Ban using any ANSI A118.4 or A118.15 thinset mortar.
Final Thoughts
This whole process — from prep to final coat — takes less than a day of work and gives you professional-level waterproofing that lasts for years.
Hydro Ban is a system I trust and use regularly because it’s simple, efficient, and incredibly effective.
Just remember:
Prep properly.
Allow curing time.
Apply two even coats.
Let it dry completely before tiling.
Follow those steps, and you’ll have a shower pan that’s watertight, durable, and built to last.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: How long should I wait before tiling after Hydro Ban?
At least 24 hours after the final coat is dry.
Q2: Do I need fabric tape with Hydro Ban?
No, Hydro Ban is designed to bridge seams without fabric reinforcement.
Q3: Can Hydro Ban go over drywall?
No — only over cementitious surfaces like cement board or cured mortar.
Q4: What’s the drying color indicator?
Wet = light olive green.
Dry = dark sage green.
Q5: Is Hydro Ban safe for both walls and floors?
Yes, it’s designed for vertical and horizontal applications, including showers and wet rooms.
Wrapping Up
That’s it — the easiest way to waterproof over a dry pack shower pan.
When applied properly, Hydro Ban gives you a completely sealed, mold-resistant, and crack-free waterproof layer that forms the foundation of a flawless tile installation.
Take your time with the prep, follow the two-coat system, and trust the color change — Hydro Ban does the rest.
If you found this helpful, subscribe to the Tile Coach channel for more tile installation tips and tutorials. For more resources and pro discussions, join the Tile Coach Forum.
Until next time — stay safe, stay precise, and as always, happy tiling!
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