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Help with insights on failing curb

I’m a DIY homeowner and built a shower pan about three years ago. Recently, the tiles on the inside face of the curb started pushing outward, so I removed the inside and top curb tiles to investigate.

I couldn’t identify the exact point of water intrusion, but nearly the full length of the DensShield on the inside and top of the curb was wet, likely from wicking, and the screws used to fasten it were rusting. I have not yet removed the outside curb tiles or the pan liner to inspect the wood underneath. The wood does not feel soft, so I’m wondering whether the curb might be repairable without full removal.

I’m hoping to understand:

  1. Why the curb failed — was the problem mainly my design, my technique, or both?

  2. What the best repair approach would be now.

Build method, inside to outside:

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Tile Redi with Schluter bench?

Just installed a Tile Redi pan and wallboard in a small shower and I’m planning on installing a Schluter corner bench. My question is what thinset should I use behind the bench and with the Kerdi band, because Tile Redi says only modified and Schluter says All Set or unmodified but All Set in not on the approved list from TR?

Also would I want to use the same thin set for installing the tiles over the bench?

239 Views
Larry S
Mar 20

Any modified thinset will really be fine. Pro lite from home Depot is the choice around here

DIYer struggling with old backer board removal

My kids bathroom remodel was going great till I started to remove the tile. The rotary drill is removing the tile easily, but I'm having trouble with what is below. I can get off the brittle backer board little by little, but there's a blue thin membrane on the bottom that I can't remove without damaging the plywood subfloor. It seems glued on completely.

Anyone had experience with this? Can thinset bond to this old membrane if I leave it? Any help would be awesome.


226 Views
Larry S
Mar 16

I wish I had an exact answer for you. I don't. But I have anecdotes.

We've tiled over existing tile, so long as it's bonded well. If you are having issues removing it, maybe bonding primer and self leveler to flatten it? Then some ditra?

My point is that if it is bonded that well, chances are it is not going to move under your tile assembly.


James MacDonald
James MacDonald

I am doing a tub to shower conversion using a mortar bed and Hydroban for the walls. After hanging the Hydroban, one wall puckered inwards at the seam by maybe 1/8", which I thought would be a problem, so I got the plastic screeds that Isaac sells and screeded it using thinset so it was flat and plumb.


After a few days I noticed a horizontal crack in the thinset, but figured it's concrete, and concrete cracks so whatever. But today I was finalizing the tile layout (rectified 4 x 4" tiles) and realized that the crack was due to the wall buckling outwards now. It's out by maybe 1/8", but these rectified tiles (Sant'Augostino pixel tiles) are not tapered at the edge at all, so will really show any lippage.


I've waterproofed the whole thing, and it's got a heated floor (Ditra Heat), so I don't want to do…



278 Views
Isaac Ostrom
Isaac Ostrom
Mar 10

Any thinset is that is adhered is good. It typically takes about 3 days for the thinet to cure. After that, its not moving.

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